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Positano this Winter

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 What exciting things have been happening in Positano this winter? Well, for starters, down on the beach, the steps outside the tobacconist shop leading up to the pier have gone, leaving a gaping hole. The plan was to build some much needed public restrooms there, as, incredibly there are none in the lower part of town at all. Not so bad in the summer, when there are lots of bars and restaurants open with bathrooms to use. Very frustrating in the winter, especially when you get caught short at the furthest point of the beach. Your options are knocking on someone’s front door and begging to use their bathroom or facing a 10 minute sprint uphill to the Piazza dei Mulini.

So, anyway, they’ve knocked the steps down, but seem to have given up there. There doesn’t seem to be much activity going on any more. Let’s keep our fingers, or should that be our legs crossed.

Moving on…The Buca di Bacco on the beachfront which was closed down in October is still shut. The only bar that stayed open in the winter, where you could sip a hot chocolate and watch the sunset on a cold winter afternoon remains empty, dead leaves tumbling around where tables once stood. Le Tre Sorelle has been open all winter, providing the only place to get lunch or dinner on the beach. It closed on Valentines Day for a well deserved break and Chez Black has now reopened.

Responding to the lack of bars open this winter, the Delicatessan has converted part of its gift store downstairs into a small bar with a few tables. Long gone are the days when you could snuggle into a chair in front of the fire, hot chocolate in hand at La Zagara.

Nearly all the restaurants and many shops are closed around town. Many of the residents are away, taking well deserved vacations after the long summer. Occasionally a couple of tourists are seen wandering around, sometimes dipping a foot in the sea. I wonder what they make of this quiet, sleepy, ghost like town, and if they know how different it is in the summer.



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